Eatingwa.com.au

 Extract By Max Vanhezen

13 September 2006

reflecting a winemaking philosophy that is distinctly French in its subtlety rather than the overt flavours commonly associated with the Australian wine industry of old.

It's this unashamedly Burgundian approach to wine that is responsible for the fondness so many harbour towards Picardy. In preparation for the release of its own Bordeaux-style Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend, the Pannells released a trial batch Sauvignon Blanc using fruit from a neighbouring property. And how did it rate? For a first release, Dan has set himself a lofty benchmark for subsequent releases – the 2006 Pannell Family Trial Batch Sauvignon Blanc may be a departure from the softly spoken and subtle Picardy house style, but I doubt too many will mind. The nose is full of clean pineapple and tropical fruit aromas and the palate is an intense mouthful of flavour that finishes long and juicy. I’m not sure how much is available and where from (other than mail order), but I’m thankful that I’ve been able to grab a case of this little ripper. If I still have bottles left after February, I’ll be extremely proud of myself.
The bulk of Picardy’s portfolio is red and of the wines on offer, two varieties stood out necks and shoulders above the rest. A very French-styled wine, the restrained and elegant 2004 Picardy Shiraz provides welcome relief for olfactory senses battered one time too many by explosions of plum and pepper. It’s balanced, succulent and long with equal parts sweet and sour, tugging impatiently on your sleeve to be drunk with duck, chicken or any other game or poultry dishes. And speaking of paltry, its price bottle borders on embarrassing value – I’ve already nabbed my share of this wine, it’s up to you now to make sure you don’t miss out. The 2004 Tete de Cuvee takes all the complexity and flavour of the regular 2004 pinot noir, but ramps the intensity, length and deliciousness factor 10-fold. Very serious wine and worthy of any self-respecting pinotphile’s attention. And here’s the good news: According to Dan, he rates the regular 2005 pinot higher than the 2004 Tete de Cuvee. If those words don’t read like erotica for pinot tragics, then I suspect your relationship is beyond repair.
As I sit with the rest of the Picardy mob, tummies sated with light-as-feather pizza and fascinating wines, I can't help but think of something Dan said earlier in the night reflecting on Picardy's philosophy of creating good wine to be shared with good company. Just as how Bill and Sandra Pannell were pursuing their passion of all things Burgundian in the early '90s when they established Picardy, the Pannells of Picardy are still walking the walk and letting their wines talk the talk in 2006.